![]() ![]() A computer rapidly switches back and forth between the antenna with the best signal, which enhances "multipath rejection." Multipath is the swishing, rushing or static sound you hear when driving around large buildings, and can make FM radios almost useless in large cities. There's also a system out there known as "diversity tuning," which uses a pair of antennas on the front and rear. This will form a partial "Faraday cage," trapping unwanted signals before they get to your antenna. If you find yourself picking up interference from the engine bay after using a pre-amp, try grounding the hood and inner fenders to the chassis with a length of 12-guage wire and a couple of sheetmetal screws. So, proper shielded cable is a must, and so is keeping the amp away from the stereo head unit. An amplifier will greatly increase your radio's range, but it will also allow it to more easily pick up on unwanted interference. Some car stereos have powerful pre-amps built into them, but most don't. ![]() Hook the amplifier up to a 12-volt power source, and you're good to go. They're usually simple to install, simply screwing in line between the antenna cable and radio. These devices work just like the amplifier that you use to power your speakers, taking a weak signal from the antenna and amplifying it before it gets to your radio. One of the go-to solutions for most is a simple powered pre-amplifier or signal booster. Make sure you have solid metal-to-metal contact between the loop on the ground cable, the mounting bolt and the grounding point. Use thick, audio-system-quality ground wire, and connect it to a heavy, unpainted metal chassis component - preferably the frame. ![]() Once you have it on, you'll need to attach the antenna's ground wire to a solid ground. You want the antenna as far up as possible for the greatest possible range. This is why most new cars have the antenna on the fender, near the trunk. Automobile ignition systems are notorious for throwing off just this kind of interference, especially those with long, unshielded spark plug wires. This signal will come through the radio as anything from a background hiss or static, to harsh popping or buzzing. The many electrical devices under your hood will throw off interference in the form of electrical inductance fields, which will hit your antenna and induce an electrical signal in it. I started with a low gain setting and gradually increased it while listening to the radio, stopping when I achieved the desired signal strength and clarity.Ideally, your antenna should be as far away from the engine compartment as possible. My booster had an adjustable gain control, allowing me to fine-tune the amplification. Plug the power supply of the booster into a wall outlet and connect it to the booster’s power input. Often these parts come with attachments to aid with this.Ĭonnect the output port of the booster to the antenna input on the radio using the required cable. Depending on the booster and antenna types, this may involve using adapters with a coaxial cable. I attached my antenna to the input port of the booster. To get the best results from your FM antenna booster, it must be installed correctly here are the steps to follow.ĭisconnect the existing antenna from the radioīefore connecting the booster, be sure to disconnect the existing antenna from the radio if one is attached. ![]()
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